Soft living along the swahili coast
the kenya travel guide
by eyitemi popo
founder, Girls Trip Tours by Iranti
This travel guide celebrates the calming ease and healing spirit of Kenya’s coastal communities—spotlighting quiet luxury and locally-owned gems across Lamu, Diani, Watamu, Malindi, and Kilifi. From soulful dining to villa stays, ocean adventures to cultural treasures, it invites you to experience the coast through the eyes and hands of the people who call it home.
It took me six separate trips up and down the Kenyan coast to confidently create this guide.
Each journey was a chance to slow down, listen, and uncover the gems that don’t always make it into mainstream travel lists. Now, instead of trial and error, you get to dive straight into the calm, the beauty, the soulful food, and the inspiring locally-owned businesses that make Lamu, Diani, Watamu, Malindi, and Kilifi unforgettable.
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malindi 〰️ lamu 〰️ diani 〰️ watamu 〰️ kilifi 〰️
The Kenyan coast is home to the Swahili people, a community whose culture has been shaped over centuries by the meeting of Africa, Arabia, and the Indian Ocean world. The word Swahili comes from the Arabic sawāḥil, meaning “of the coast.” Known for their seafaring traditions, poetry, music, ornate architecture, and exquisite cuisine, the Swahili are descendants of Bantu-speaking communities who traded and intermarried with Arab, Persian, and Indian merchants.
Swahili culture thrives in the rhythms of daily life along the coast—from the carved wooden doors of Lamu, to the bustling spice markets of Mombasa, to the melodic cadence of Kiswahili, a language now spoken by more than 200 million people across East and Central Africa.
This guide celebrates that heritage by spotlighting locally-owned gems where the spirit of the Swahili coast still pulses strongest.
This guide is for women who deserve rest without apology, joy without negotiation, and luxury without guilt. Whether you come to dance barefoot in Kilifi, sail the dhows of Lamu, or sip champagne on Diani’s sands, may you find what I’ve found on this coastline: permission to be soft, permission to belong, and permission to breathe.
✨ Soft Life Hack: Any location mentioned in this guide can be found on our curated Google Map, so you can explore like a local with ease.
🗺️ Getting there
Mombasa is the gateway to most of Kenya’s southern and central coast. While it has its own charm and history as East Africa’s oldest port city, many travelers use it as a hub before venturing further out to Diani (south) or Watamu/Malindi (north). Kilifi, tucked between Mombasa and Malindi, is a quieter midpoint escape. Lamu, further north, is reached by plane.
✈️ By Plane:
Lamu: Direct flights from Nairobi’s Wilson or JKIA to Lamu Airport (Manda Island). Then, sail from the airport to your accommodation.
Diani: Daily flights from Nairobi to Ukunda Airstrip (just minutes from the beach).
Watamu/Malindi: Fly directly from Nairobi to Malindi Airport.
Kilifi: No airport—fly into Malindi or Mombasa, then drive about 1 hour.
My preferred airline is Jambojet when flying within Kenya
🚆 By Train (SGR):
Nairobi to Mombasa in 5–6 hours. From Mombasa, you can easily transfer to Diani, Watamu, or Kilifi by car.
Make sure you choose Premium, not First Class, if you want the seat/cabin pictured below.
The train is an experience due to the service, comfort, and beautiful sights along the way, plus in my experience, it runs on time, while the flights may be delayed.
Premium Class, Madraka Express. Nairobi > Mombasa stops in Voi (a National Park with lots of wildlife).
LAMU: Where Time Stands Still
Sunset Sail in Lamu
A UNESCO World Heritage site, Lamu is Kenya’s oldest continually inhabited Swahili town, dating back more than 700 years. Perched on an island off the northern coast, it remains a jewel of Swahili architecture, culture, and trade history. With no cars, life here moves to a gentler rhythm—by donkey, dhow, or on foot—echoing a slower, more deliberate way of being. Often compared to Stone Town in Zanzibar, Lamu rivals it in heritage and serenity—and in my opinion, it beats it.
Who Vacations Here
Travelers who seek culture, history, and tranquility. Artists, writers, wellness seekers, and anyone drawn to old-world charm find themselves enchanted by Lamu’s pace.
The Vibe
Slow. Mystical. Intimate. Old-world Luxury. Lamu is not a place to “do”—it’s a place to be.
What to Do
Wander Lamu Old Town’s stone alleys with a local guide.
Take a sunset dhow sail.
Visit Shela village and its 12 km beach.
Enjoy a meal and relax by the pool at Majlis Resort, Lamu House Hotel or Peponi Hotel.
Explore Lamu Museum and cultural festivals.
Takwa Ruins, located on Manda Island, in the Lamu Archipelago.
Join a Swahili cooking class with a local woman host. (let us book this for you!)
Soft Life Hacks
Stay in a locally-owned boutique villa in Shela for the most peaceful mornings.
Book a private dhow for sunset instead of joining group sails. (let us book this for you!)
Indulge in fresh seafood delivered straight to your door by fishermen.
Best Time of Year
November–March (dry season, calm seas) and July to October. Avoid April–May rains. Note that it’s also very hot & humid in December - January.
What to Pack
Light cotton dresses, a shawl for modesty when in town, sandals for Shela’s sandy streets, and something white for those sunset dhows.
Travel Advisory Note (U.S. Embassy):
When you look up Lamu, you’ll see that Lamu County is designated as a “Do Not Travel” zone by the U.S. Department of State due to risks of terrorism and kidnapping, largely tied to its proximity to the Somalia border. But it’s important to note that Lamu County (which also includes mainland areas) and the Lamu Archipelago—a constellation of islands including Lamu, Manda, Pate, and Kiwayu—are very different contexts with differing risk factors.
Lamu County borders Somalia, while Lamu Island itself is a hidden gem. I’ve been lucky to visit four times, and I can honestly say it is one of—if not the most—serene and safe places I’ve ever traveled solo.
“From mentoring sessions with emerging tech leaders in Nairobi to luxurious stays and sailing in the Lamu Archipelago, Eyitemi ensured that every thing ran seamlessly from day 1 to the end.
Book that trip!! It is more than worth it.”
DIANI: The Jet-Setter’s Playground
Ali Barbour’s Ancient Cave
South of Mombasa, Diani stretches 25 kilometers of white sand and clear turquoise waters. A blend of Swahili, Arab, and Mijikenda cultures infuses the town with rich heritage, while its thriving tourism scene adds a touch of modern luxury. Here, international flair meets local charm, and the luxury stays are louder and more accessible, offering everything from private villas to beachfront resorts. The beaches? They rival Zanzibar’s with powdery sands, swaying palms, and waters so inviting you’ll never want to leave.
Who Vacations Here
Well-heeled Nairobians, honeymooners, Black expats, and international travelers looking for a luxurious beach escape.
The Vibe
Lively yet laid-back. A blend of luxury resorts, buzzing beach clubs, and hidden sanctuaries.
What to Do
Ali Barbour's: 180,000 year old fine-dining cave dinner.
Go kitesurfing or deep-sea diving.
Ride a camel on the beach.
Explore Shimba Hills for a coastal safari.
Visit Kaya Kinondo, a sacred Mijikenda forest.
Soft Life Hacks
Hire a private chef to cook Swahili meals at your villa.
Book spa treatments that come to your accommodation.
Take a helicopter ride over the coastline for unreal views.
Best Time of Year
December–March for peak sunshine and social energy; June–September for quieter luxury.
What to Pack
Swimwear for days, linen fits for nights, and glam resort wear for beach club brunches.
WATAMU & MALINDI: Where Marine Magic Happens
Sealife Safari in Watamu Marine Park
Malindi and Watamu are twin jewels on the coast, known for their turquoise waters, marine reserves, and laid-back charm. Malindi has long been a crossroads of cultures, attracting traders from Arabia, Portugal, and beyond, while Watamu offers pristine white-sand beaches and world-class diving.
Watamu has a significant Italian influence, leading it to be known as “Little Italy” because of the large number of Italian residents, restaurants, villas, and cultural contributions—especially following increased tourism in the 1980s and 90s. This influence is everywhere: in the casual “Ciao” greetings, authentic pasta and pizza spots, gelato shops, and even Italian-made Piaggio tuk-tuks zipping through town.
Together, Malindi and Watamu offer a unique blend of African, Arab, and Italian flavors—making them unlike any other beach towns on the Kenyan coast. While Watamu’s strong Italian influence is part of what makes it unique, it’s also for this reason that it’s not my personal favorite on the coast. While the “Little Italy” character brings gelato shops and pizza spots, it can sometimes overshadow the local Swahili culture that makes Kenya’s coast so rich. For me, the true magic lies in the Black- and locally-owned gems—where the heartbeat of the coast is alive and well.
Who Vacations Here
Marine lovers, history buffs, European holiday-makers, and other travelers seeking quieter coastal days with bursts of adventure.
The Vibe
Easygoing, aquatic, heritage-rich.
What to Do
Snorkel or dive at Watamu Marine Park. (may need cash or MPESA mobile money to pay)
Visit Gede Ruins, a 12th-century Swahili town. (MUST DO)
Spend a day at Marafa Depression (Hell’s Kitchen).
Explore Malindi’s Old Town and Portuguese Chapel.
Sunset at Lichthaus by Temple Point in Mida Creek.
Soft Life Hacks
Charter a boat at sunrise for dolphin watching followed by a champagne breakfast.
Stay in a boutique villa tucked into the quieter stretches of Watamu beach.
Shop locally-made jewelry and baskets at women’s co-ops.
Best Time of Year
December–March for calm seas; September–October for whale shark and humpback whale sightings.
What to Pack
Snorkel gear (if you have your own), light resort wear, sandals, and an adventurous spirit.
KILIFI: The Bohemian Soul
Kilifi Creek
Kilifi is a laid-back coastal town nestled between Mombasa and Malindi. The lesser-known cousin of more established beach towns like Watamu and Diani, it offers a uniquely serene, bohemian escape full of creative energy, arts, and soulful connection. Its quiet beaches, mangrove-lined creek, and locally-owned retreats make it the perfect spot to slow down, breathe, and immerse yourself in coastal calm. While it’s the only destination on this list I haven’t visited overnight, it’s a favorite among my friends from Nairobi and I did have an enjoyable day trip there so I had to include it as an option.
Who Vacations Here
Bohemian travelers, creatives, digital nomads, overworked Nairobians, and wellness seekers looking for community without the crowds.
The Vibe
Free-spirited, artistic, and community-driven.
What to Do
Swim in Kilifi Creek or take a dhow ride.
Visit Mnarani Ruins overlooking the creek.
Join yoga or wellness retreats.
Dance the night away at local festivals.
Soft Life Hacks
Rent a creekside villa with a private pool and full-time chef.
Visit artisan studios for locally-crafted fashion and art.
Time your trip around cultural festivals like Kilifi New Year.
Best Time of Year
December–March for vibrancy, August–September for cooler, calmer stays.
What to Pack
Easy boho fits, sandals, swimwear, a light scarf for breezy creek evenings, bug spray.
🌴 Soft Life Stay Tip
I’ve added a few hotels to the Google Map, but for most of these towns, the ultimate experience is a private villa stay—complete with a cook, butler, and attentive house staff to make every moment effortless. Instead of searching endlessly, set up a call with our Iranti Concierge and we’ll match you with the perfect luxury stay tailored to your vibe.
✨ BONUS: Swahili Phrases for the Coast
Jambo – Hello
Asante – Thank you
Pole pole – Slowly, take it easy
Karibu – Welcome / You’re welcome
Poa – Cool / Okay
🥁 If I had to pick one…
Lamu is a once-in-a-lifetime kind of place—and still, I’ve chosen it four times and would choose it again. What sets it apart is not only its timeless beauty but also the way locals hold more ownership here than anywhere else on the coast. Every dhow ride, every meal, every hand-carved door tells a story rooted in community and tradition. When you visit, you can easily support local vendors, and know that your presence helps sustain this living heritage.
Villa Pool in Shela Village, Lamu
🛍️ Where to Shop
Natural Lamu Soap
black owned, Woman owned
Imagine unwrapping a bar of soap crafted not just with ingredients, but with intention—and story. Natural Lamu started on what others saw as “just sandy soil” on Lamu Island; but with care, resilience, and a women-led team, that soil transformed into a flourishing organic farm that now fuels a beloved skincare brand, Natural Lamu.
Each handcrafted bar is made using rich local ingredients—moringa, neem, baobab, coconut, cashew, lemongrass—harvested directly from their farm, then lovingly turned into soaps, balms, oils, and more. What started as market stall dreams now blooms into stores dotted across Kenya—from Shela in Lamu to Malindi Airport to Village Market in Nairobi—yet the soul of the business remains the same: authentic, ethical, Kenyan-made care.
This is skincare with soul: Black-owned, women-led, island-grown, and made for people who appreciate beauty that comes from ancestral community, not just chemistry.
My go-to is the Coral Powder Scrub & Red Clay Natural Soap.
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